Travel in Lebanon: the complete practical guide

In short: Lebanon is a small country where you can go from the Mediterranean to the mountains in an hour. Beirut is the ideal base: from there, Byblos, Jeita Grotto, Harissa and Batroun are easy day trips, and Baalbek a longer one. The visa is issued on arrival, French and English are widely spoken, and cash is king.

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When to go to Lebanon

• Spring (April to June): the best time to see everything. Mild weather, green mountains and pleasant sightseeing.
• Summer (July and August): hot and humid on the coast, cooler in the mountains. Beach season, nightlife and the big festivals (Baalbek, Beiteddine, Byblos).
• Autumn (September to November): still warm, the sea is pleasant and sites are less busy.
• Winter (December to March): rain on the coast and snow in the mountains. You can ski at Faraya-Mzaar, in the mountains above Beirut, and at the Cedars, further north.

Entry requirements

For tourism, French citizens receive a free one-month visa on arrival, renewable. You need:

• a passport valid for at least six months after the date of entry;
• no Israeli stamp or visa in your passport, and no plane ticket mentioning Israel: entry would be refused.

Rules depend on your nationality and can change: check them before you go on the Lebanese embassy website or your government’s travel advice website.

Arriving in Beirut

Almost all travellers arrive at Rafic Hariri International Airport, about ten kilometres south of central Beirut. Allow 15 to 30 minutes by road, longer at rush hour.

• Taxi: official taxis wait outside arrivals. Agree on the fare before getting in.
• Ride-hailing app: handy to know the price in advance (Bolt operates in Beirut).
• Pre-booked transfer: a driver waits with your name, ideal when arriving late or with family.

Getting around Lebanon

There are no trains in Lebanon. Distances are short, but traffic is often heavy, especially around Beirut.

• With a driver or on an organised tour: the easiest way to reach Baalbek, the Qadisha Valley or the Cedars.
• By rental car: freedom for the mountains, but driving is challenging. Avoid keeping the car in Beirut, where parking is hard.
• “Services”: shared taxis that follow a route and pick up several passengers. Cheap, but always ask whether it is a “service” or a private ride.
• Minibuses: from Beirut, they leave mainly from Charles Helou station for the north (Byblos, Batroun) and from Cola roundabout for the south and the Bekaa. Handy and cheap, but with no fixed timetable.

Money and payments

Lebanon has been through a severe financial crisis, and cash is still the main way to pay. The US dollar is widely used alongside the Lebanese pound: many prices are shown in dollars.

• Cards are accepted in some hotels, restaurants and shops, but not everywhere.
• There are ATMs in the cities; ask your bank about fees.
• Bring several payment methods and always some cash.

Internet and phone

Lebanon is not part of the European Union: EU mobile plans do not work under EU roaming rules there, and roaming can be expensive. Check with your operator, or install a travel eSIM before you leave to be online as soon as you land.

Languages, electricity and practicalities

• Languages: Arabic is the official language, but French and English are widely spoken, especially in Beirut and in tourism.
• Electricity: public power cuts are frequent; hotels and many buildings have generators. Keep a power bank charged.
• Dress: covering clothing is required to visit mosques and some churches.

What to see in Lebanon

Beirut

The capital blends lively neighbourhoods, renowned food and remains from every era: the National Museum, the Corniche and the Pigeon Rocks, Gemmayzeh and Mar Mikhael for going out. See our guide Things to do in Beirut and where to stay in Beirut.

Byblos (Jbeil)

One of the oldest cities in the world, north of Beirut: a UNESCO-listed archaeological site, a Crusader castle, an old souk and a pretty harbour. See Byblos.

Baalbek

In the Bekaa plain, some of the most impressive Roman temples in the world, including those of Bacchus and Jupiter, also UNESCO-listed. A long day trip from Beirut. See Baalbek.

Jeita Grotto

A huge network of limestone caves, visited on foot and by boat, about twenty kilometres north of Beirut. The site has had temporary closures: check that it is open before you go.

Harissa and Jounieh

The shrine of Our Lady of Lebanon overlooks the bay of Jounieh, reached by a cable car with spectacular views of the coast.

Batroun

A small coastal town north of Byblos, with its old town, Phoenician wall, beaches and seafront restaurants.

The Qadisha Valley and the Cedars

In the north, the holy Qadisha Valley, its rock-cut monasteries, and the Forest of the Cedars of God near Bsharri: a UNESCO World Heritage site. In winter, you can ski at the Cedars.

Beiteddine and the Chouf

In the Chouf mountains, Beiteddine Palace, with its courtyards and mosaics, hosts a summer festival. The area also has the Chouf Cedar Reserve.

Anjar

In the Bekaa, the ruins of an Umayyad town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, often combined with Baalbek.

Suggested itineraries

4 days

1. Beirut: National Museum, downtown, the Corniche.
2. Byblos in the morning, Batroun in the afternoon and evening.
3. Jeita Grotto and Harissa (cable car from Jounieh).
4. Baalbek, with a driver or on an organised tour.

7 days Add the Qadisha Valley and the Cedars (a night there is more comfortable), Beiteddine Palace and the Chouf, and Anjar on the way to Baalbek.

Where to stay in Lebanon

For a first trip, Beirut is the best base: most sites are day trips. Choose your area to suit you: Achrafieh for charm, Hamra on a budget, Mar Mikhael and Gemmayzeh for nightlife, downtown for comfort. To enjoy the northern coast, one or two nights in Byblos or Batroun are a lovely option.