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Travel in Jordan: the complete practical guide

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The Treasury (Al-Khazneh), carved into the rock at Petra
Contents

In short: Jordan means Petra, the city carved into the rock, the Wadi Rum desert, the Dead Sea, the Roman ruins of Jerash and Amman, the capital. A week is enough for the highlights. Consider the Jordan Pass, which combines the visa and entry to many sites.

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When to go to Jordan

  • Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November): the best times for Petra and the desert.
  • Summer: very hot, especially in Petra, Wadi Rum and by the Dead Sea; visit early in the morning.
  • Winter: mild in Aqaba and at the Dead Sea, but sometimes cold, even snowy, in Amman and Petra.

Entry requirements

  • Visa: required. For many nationalities, including most Europeans, it can be obtained on arrival at Amman airport.
  • Jordan Pass: bought online before you travel, it includes the visa fee if you stay at least two consecutive nights in Jordan, plus entry to more than 40 sites, including Petra.
  • Passport: check the required validity and the rules for your nationality with the Jordanian embassy before you go.

Arriving in Jordan

  • Amman: Queen Alia Airport lies south of the city. The Airport Express bus serves west Amman (as far as the 7th Circle) and the north bus station; taxis and pre-booked transfers take you straight to your hotel.
  • Aqaba, on the Red Sea, also has an international airport, handy for Wadi Rum and Petra.

Getting around Jordan

  • A hire car gives you the most freedom: the Desert Highway is the fastest route, the King’s Highway the most scenic, but slower.
  • JETT buses link Amman with Petra and Aqaba.
  • Organised tours and private drivers are very common, especially for Wadi Rum.

Money, internet and practicalities

  • Currency: the Jordanian dinar (JOD). Cards are accepted in hotels and many restaurants; bring cash for small shops and taxis.
  • Language: Arabic; English is widely spoken in tourist areas.
  • Weekend: Friday is the main day off; some shops and offices close.
  • Electricity: type B, C, D, F, G and J plugs, 230 V: a universal adapter is useful. Time: UTC+3 all year.
  • Internet: a local SIM card or a travel eSIM.

What to see in Jordan

  • Petra: the Siq, the Treasury, the Royal Tombs and the Monastery; a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  • Wadi Rum: a desert of red sand and cliffs, best explored by 4x4 with a night in a camp; also UNESCO-listed.
  • Amman: the Citadel, the Roman theatre and the downtown souks.
  • Jerash: one of the best-preserved Roman cities in the Middle East, north of Amman.
  • The Dead Sea: you float effortlessly; several hotels have beach access.
  • Madaba and Mount Nebo: Byzantine mosaics and views over the Jordan Valley.
  • Aqaba: diving and snorkelling in the Red Sea.

Suggested itineraries

5 days: Amman and Jerash (2 days), Petra (2 days), Wadi Rum (1 night).

1 week: Amman, Jerash, Madaba and Mount Nebo, the Dead Sea, Petra and Wadi Rum.

10 days: the one-week route, the King’s Highway, then a few days in Aqaba on the Red Sea.

What to eat in Jordan

  • Mansaf, lamb cooked in a dried-yoghurt sauce and served on rice, the national dish;
  • mezze: hummus, falafel, moutabal;
  • knafeh, a cheese pastry soaked in syrup;
  • sage tea and cardamom coffee.

Culture and etiquette

  • Hospitality matters a great deal: you will often be offered tea.
  • Dress: cover shoulders and knees in town and at sites, especially religious ones.
  • During Ramadan, avoid eating and drinking in public during the day.
  • Photos: ask before photographing people.

Health and safety

Drink plenty of water and protect yourself from the sun, especially in Petra and the desert. Wear good shoes for Petra’s steps. Travel insurance covering medical costs is strongly recommended.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a visa for Jordan?

Yes. For many nationalities, including most Europeans, the visa can be obtained on arrival at Amman airport. The Jordan Pass, bought online before you travel, includes the visa fee if you stay at least two consecutive nights in the country. Check the rules for your nationality before you go.

Is the Jordan Pass worth it?

It combines the visa fee with entry to more than 40 tourist sites, including Petra, so it quickly pays off if you visit Petra. The Petra by Night show is not included.

How long does it take to get from Amman to Petra?

About three hours by road on the Desert Highway. A JETT bus also links Amman with Petra; check its timetable on the company's website.

When is the best time to visit Jordan?

Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are the best times. Summer is very hot, especially in Petra, Wadi Rum and at the Dead Sea; winter can be cold in Amman and Petra.